O.k., so not really across Australia, just down to Melbourne and back. Although not just down and back, more like down and around a bit.
We drove down the highway through Goulburn, where stands a monument to two things: the roadside attraction, and Australia’s long-time reliance on wool: the Big Merino.
Not long past that point, we reached a highlight of any road trip along this route: the Dog on the Tucker Box.
The story behind this monument is inexplicable, at least insofar as a monument to the moment was required, but there you have it: a dog is perched upon the tuckerbox forevermore.
We also passed by Holbrook, home of the world’s most landlocked submarine.
We stayed over in Albury, a large enough inland city, just across the Murray from Wondonga, the two localities combining to a population just under 100,000. So big, as far as non-Capitol cities are concerned.
From there we proceeded to the most haunted spot in all Australia, at least for cineophiles: Hanging Rock. We even had a picnic.
No sign of Miranda, but it was nevertheless, or perhaps in consequence, a remarkably similar experience to the film. Other than having to walk up there. Hanging Rock itself, however, is surprisingly inconspicuous. It’s basically just a big rock that’s fallen across a chasm through the escarpment, forming an overhang to duck under back down (or up) the outcropping. There was spookiness, a little, I suppose, but also flies, lorikeets, and kookaburra.
After hitting Melbourne and having a fine Christmas there, where I was gifted with a stovetop espresso pot (sure to see much use for a long time to come), we went up and over to Thredbo, one of Australia’s skiing destinations. In summer, this resort town resorts to having people use the mountain for mountain biking and hiking. There’s a golf course, too, but I can only imagine the frustration of hitting your ball upslope onto the green, only to see it roll back down.
Thredbo backs onto Mount Kosioszko, Australia’s highest peak, at just over 2200 metres. The main chairlift takes you up to the start of a steel walking track (not galvanized, as the meadow plants don’t care for the zinc), and this takes you most of the way up to the top, winding through remarkable glacial rock formations and the source of the Snowy Mountains water scheme, supplying water and electricity to a substantial part of the region. Small streams trickle through from the top, with cachements of bogs and pools, and populated by galaxia, thumb-sized (or smaller) fish, who, swept down lower, feed trout.
But, hey, look: snow!
There isn’t much else to Thredbo, not even in winter, although I suppose a skier might say otherwise. So after two nights there, we headed up and the over to the sea, where we visited Kiama, and its famous blow-hole, a section of rock where the waves crashing through generate enormous spouts of water.
We also walked along the Sea Cliff Bridge, a little further up the coast. This remarkable piece of engineering replaced a section of roadway long given to periodic closures due to rockslides and collapses, and where people from the neighbourhood or passing through will clip engraved padlocks to profess undying love for one another. No word on whether tradition includes throwing the keys into the sea or if each party gets one, just in case, but some showed considerable weathering, and many showed significant creativity. I may have to revisit this site someday in the future.
A lot of photos haven’t come out, so the selection here is the best available. If I can get any others, I’ll add them later.